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A popular trend in the flooring industry is 17-billion-dollar industry that is Luxury
Vinyl Planks (LVP). Is Luxury Vinyl Planks a luxurious flooring product or is it a
substandard finish flooring product?

There is a broad range when referring to acronym luxury vinyl
planks in conversation, because the low-quality brands are mixed in with higher quality brands, however all LVP are called LVP. Therefore, it is upon the buyer to find a product which meets their
budget and goals for this product.
What are some of the manufacturing specifications that you should aim for when
searching for luxury LVP planks and attain a 20-year warranty?

• Thickness of the plank, which includes this finished floor and pattern. A
  better rated plank would be 5mm to 8 mm.
• A good top layer for a LVP would be 12 Mil.
• A good LVP will have UV protection layers that is mixed into “wear
  layer”
• A vapor barrier would likely be recommended.
• A flat floor which doesn’t have rolls.
• Proper GAPAGE between walls-floors, and interior trim and thresholds.
• Read all the instructions associated with the flooring and follow all the
  instructions for the installation.

To be upfront, I have a low opinion of luxury vinyl planks products and would strongly discourage
any customer from using such a product. I don’t see the product as a long-lasting material.
LVP does not hold up to scratches, sand, and dirt as alternative flooring does. Luxury vinyl
planks does move a lot, and careful consideration needs to be made around door thresholds. I do see
LVP working in limited areas to decrease costs with material and labor.

One issue that luxury vinyl planks flooring has not been raised by the public is that the material in
most cases cannot be recycled, therefore the product goes to the landfill and takes the
valuable space needed in a landfill.

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Today’s framing of residential homes would be classified as “Western Deck
Framing” or also referred to as “Stick Framing”. Overall independent sections/parts of the
frame are connected through load paths, which transfer from its origin all the way to the
footings that support the foundation. Because sections of the frame are being done in
smaller units, efficiency and accuracy can be achieved by an experienced builder. What is
attractive with this approach to framing a structure is that a relatively smaller crew can
perform this task. I have framed homes solo, which can raise eyebrows when I mention
this fact. One of the real strengths of Western Deck Framing is that extra attention can be
focused on point loads, girder connections, and component sections which can be
generously connected to one another.

In the 1920’s America began depleting its taller trees and western deck framing was
developed and honed over the next decades. Western deck framing eliminated ballon
framing, which combined sections of building as one. Typically, a two-story facade was
constructed and raised into position. Although, ballon framing does have a degree of
efficiency there are a lot of negatives when approaching a framing project in this manner.
The main issue is the weight of setting a wall of this magnitude. The other negatives
include floor to wall connections, and especially fireproofing.

I generally work on a combination of Timber framed, Ballooned framed, and
Western Deck framed homes. The Timber and Ballon framed homes require a lot more
work because the system and standards of yesterday will not meet today’s codes.
Therefore, I generally end up reframing a section of that area to transfer live and dead load
to a foundation, which may or may not have a footing. The other issue associated with
Ballon framed homes is insulation, fire stopping, and out of level-plumb rooms.

It’s more common in my area to find a hybrid Timber framed and Ballooned framed,
which have similar issues but suffer more failures than typical generic ballon framed.
Generally, the hybrid of the combination between Timber and Ballon can yield some
shocking discoveries in which the structure was utterly compromised. This type of
scenario is likely from a remodel or a plumber retro fitting the house for a bathroom.

I strongly urge consumers to find reputable remodeling contractors without a
fictional background in framing to work on their homes. Framing experience is gained by
doing the work as opposed to watching YouTube videos.

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If I had to use generalities to highlight today’s present home build vs. yesterday’s
home build; what are some broad generalities that a potential home buyer should be aware
of? This is a perspective from a person who has spent their entire working adulthood
remodeling homes, building new homes, and designing homes in the residential
construction industry.

Today’s homes have some meaningful attributes, which can include:

1. Footings and Foundation and platform connection and water remediation.
2. Framing improvements include platform spans, wall depth, plywood usage, and
   improved roof framing sizing systems and standards.
3. Mechanical and electrical improvements would include grounding, energy efficiency,
   and system and standards for installation.
4. In terms of energy conservation today’s homes would perform better on-air infiltration,
   radiation, conduction, and possible indoor air quality.
   Yesterday’s home attributes, which generally include:
5. Older homes generally offer mature landscaping and meaningful neighborhoods.
6. Lot sizes for older homes are generally better than new homes, and better building lots.
7. Older homes built before 1945 were generally designed with classical style
   architecture, which can be timeless, balanced and have proper proportions.
8. The floor plans of older homes are generally logical and a level of charm, because of
   architectural detailing and proportions.

Both new and old homes have positives attributes, which can be blended into one,
but planning, budgets, and experienced professionals are the key ingredients in this
recipe.

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Roofing shingles are constantly being tested daily, yet most consumers know little about their composition, functionality, and advancements over time. Whether it’s exposure to harsh weather conditions, UV rays, or physical impact, shingles must withstand numerous elements while protecting homes from the outside world.

Today’s roofing shingles are primarily constructed using a heavy fiberglass mat-base, which provides strength and durability. This base is then coated with ceramic-coated mineral granules, which are tightly embedded in carefully refined, water-resistant asphalt. These components work together to ensure longevity and resistance against environmental factors such as rain, snow, and wind. In recent years, the industry has largely transitioned away from traditional imperial measurements, opting instead for larger shingle dimensions to cover more area per unit, reducing installation time and labor costs.

Aesthetically, modern shingles are designed to resemble the look of natural materials such as slate or wood shake, offering a three-dimensional appearance with dual-tone granular color variations. This allows homeowners to achieve a sophisticated look without the high costs and maintenance associated with genuine slate or wood roofing.

Shingle technology has advanced significantly in recent decades. Many modern shingles now come with features such as stain guards to prevent algae growth, radiation deflectors to reduce heat absorption, impact-resistant technology for better durability against hail or debris, and high wind-rated capabilities to withstand severe storms. These technological improvements play a crucial role in extending the life expectancy of roofing shingles while enhancing their performance in various climates.

Compared to shingles from 30 years ago, today’s products are far superior in quality, design, and lifespan. The top four roofing brands—Owens Corning, CertainTeed, Tamko, and IKO—each offer a range of shingles with varying degrees of quality, warranty coverage, and product innovation. Homeowners and contractors alike rely on these brands for their reputable track records and commitment to product excellence.

The lifespan of a laminated shingle typically ranges from 20 to 22 years, but several factors influence its durability. Proper installation is crucial, as incorrect placement or inadequate sealing can lead to premature failure. The color of the shingle also plays a role—darker shingles absorb more heat, potentially shortening their lifespan in hot climates. Attic ventilation is another critical factor, as poor ventilation can cause heat buildup and moisture retention, leading to early deterioration. Additionally, extreme weather conditions such as heavy snowfall, hail, and hurricanes can significantly impact longevity. The direction in which a roof faces also matters; south-facing roofs, for example, tend to experience more sun exposure, which can cause faster aging.

In conclusion, modern roofing shingles are far more advanced than their predecessors, offering improved durability, aesthetics, and technology to meet the demands of today’s homeowners. By understanding the factors that contribute to shingle longevity, consumers can make informed decisions when choosing the best roofing materials for their homes. With proper installation and maintenance, high-quality shingles can provide long-lasting protection and curb appeal for decades.

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What I have been seeing in the last decade on the decorating and finishes for my
projects in the Seacoast of New Hampshire would likely be classified as “Farmhouse
Coastal Contemporary” and “Coastal Contemporary”.

I would define the “Farmhouse Coastal Contemporary” and “Coastal
Contemporary” as the same in decorating details, but one is set in older home (100 years
or older) while the other is in a relatively new house that is less than thirty years old.

I believe that it is important to understand the subtle decorations and finishes when
discussing projects, because these details affect my design and execution of a project.
Therefore, what is “Farmhouse Coastal Contemporary” and “Coastal Contemporary”?
Both styles have a white palette with subtle nautical colors such as soft blues,
seafoam greens, sandy neutrals, and changing ocean hues. The accent pieces for furniture
are natural materials such as aged barn boards, driftwood, and rustic colors. The furniture
are linen colors. The countertops in the kitchen are generally a Carrara or a low impact
granite with bold veining. Overall, both styles have clean lines with a lot of natural light
entering the interior.

The flooring that I have installed in these applications include Heart pine, Southern
Yellow pine, and white Oak. The flooring is always a plank width of 5” or greater, which
has included random widths also. The finish has also been a natural finish to highlight the
hues of the wood species.

Another typical detail has been a beamed ceiling with aged red pine mixed in with a
wood plank natural or painted white pine. I generally include wafer LED lights in this
application to meet electrical code always with a dimmer.

In terms of wall coverings, it either drywall or plank wall covering in a white. My
go-to door and casing are a vintage flat casing with a bead. I generally make this detail a
four piece, which translates into a handsome piece in my opinion, which could be argued
as a more of a Federalist piece than a coastal, but molded modern trim has the wrong
dimensions and cheapens the finished space. All trim work is painted.

Electrical should have vintage sconces that are either brass color or black. These
lights are more decorative and are mood setting lights. I prefer to install the outlets
embedded into the baseboard, but this can be a challenge in the existing floors have
meaningful settlement.

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In New England, crossover trim blends classic charm with modern style. I am fortunate to live and work as a remodeling contractor in the Northeast where the towns and cities are museums of classical architecture, especially on civic buildings. However, there is also an abundant number of residential homes that would be classified as modern, which would be classified as minimal traditional, ranch, split-level, contemporary, and shed.

Most customers I work with prefer classical architectural millwork details, but they live in architecturally classified “modern” homes. A millwork detail that can successfully bridge this gap is crossover trim, such as Chippendale handrails.

Chippendale railings became popular in Western cultures from successful craftsmen
such as Thomas Chippendale, a cabinetmaker in England, and designers like Thomas
Jefferson in the American Colonies. From the mid-Atlantic Chippendale railings grew out
of their regional popularity and can be seen on exterior railings from the deep South to the
Northeast.

One of the reasons why crossover trim like Chippendale rails can be used in a traditional or
contemporary setting is that there are a variety of Chippendale designs, and the
Chippendale design doesn’t have to be used on every inch of railing.

In the past, I have used the “Southern Cross”, on traditional homes, and the
“Diamond” pattern, on contemporary homes. Overall, the Chippendale rail design is a
crossover trim mill work detail and can achieve a timeless mill work detail. Chippendale railings
can be used both on the interior and exterior, which makes it a versatile mill work detail.

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A potential silent killer that homeowners in New Hampshire should be aware of
while purchasing and owning a home is Radon gas which includes air and water. Radon is
tiny radioactive particles that can be carcinogenic to your lungs and other internal organs
over prolonged exposure. Radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US.
Over 21,000 Americans die yearly from this silent killer.

I remember helping my father install numerous Radon fans on his new homes in the
Seacoast of New Hampshire and his customer base in the mid-to-late 1980s. Overall
awareness of Radon gas seems low among homeowners and the purpose of this blog is to
help raise awareness of this issue. This awareness should especially be pertinent to the
homeowner who owns or plans on buying an energy-efficient home because the house is
so well sealed that the Radon gas could be trapped in the living areas of the house.
Radon gas is a byproduct of decaying granite bedrock. Although New Hampshire is
nicknamed the “Granite State”, Alaska has a higher concentration of Radon gas than New
Hampshire.

As a homeowner or homebuyer, how do I determine if Radon gas is an issue? The
answer is to test the air quality and, if possible, your well for Radon gas. The EPA
recommends that tests should be repeated every two years because Radon gas can
fluctuate.

If you test high for Radon gas, there are mechanical systems to combat Radon gas.
There are also passive ways to lower Radon gas. Overall, either a mechanical system or
passive alternatives will not eliminate radon gas but rather lower the concentration within a
safe tolerance for your family to absorb.

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As I drive around the Seacoast of New Hampshire for work-related activities I have
been noticing a phenomenon concerning new home builds. Building lots that were once
considered undesirable are now being built on. The seacoast of New Hampshire and the
Southern Maine coastline have become desirable areas to live in, and the new construction
home industries have been strong for the last decade.

The purpose of this blog is to focus on sound building fundamentals and methods of
construction. My concern for these new construction builds is that new homes dismiss the
fundamentals of building sound, long-lasting homes on the land that they sit on, because
either there is a rush to start a project or an absence of property to build on.
Therefore, what are sound building lots for homes to sit on? Topography would be
my number one concern when buying a building lot. Water runs downhill; therefore, I
would look for a lot that has a defined topography, in which the house would sit on the
highest elevation. IBC and standard building code dictate 1”/10’ of slope around the
perimeter. In my opinion, this minimum dictated by building codes is not adequate for a
long-lasting build in the New England area. I would prefer a 4”/10’ slope to ensure
snowpack and drainage are defined.

The second fundamental that I would search for when choosing a building lot is
ecology, especially the soil. Soils are so underrated by homeowners and builders when
choosing a building lot for a home. Try to avoid clay-based soil, because it’s likely that the
building is a candidate for foundation issues. Also, clay has poor drainage properties for
lawns.

The last fundamental that would be a deal breaker when purchasing a building lot is
not having a southern exposure house. Southern exposure for a home provides bright
natural light all day and warms your house up through radiation, which is an important
heating detail for a home in New England.

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Building materials and indoor air pollution are critical factors to consider when making decisions about constructing or renovating a home. Avoiding short and long-term health risks for you and your family when choosing building materials for your next remodeling project or new home is
necessary.

Although I am an experienced carpenter and General Contractor, I am not
a health expert on indoor air pollution. Indoor air pollution can be 2-5 times
greater than outdoor air pollution, according to the EPA. I have looked into what
building materials should be avoided if you’re trying to lower indoor air pollution.
The first product that you want to avoid is formaldehyde, which is a
naturally occurring substance that is composed of carbon, hydrogen, and
oxygen. The problem is that formaldehyde is used by manufacturers in a lot of
building materials. Some of the building materials that I found online include
some OSB, MDF, Paints, and inexpensive cabinetry.

When it comes to building materials and indoor air pollution, the second building material that I am aware of that can raise indoor air pollution is spray foam, which has been a popular trend in the last decade in the
construction industry.

“Spray foam insulation consists of a mix of toxic chemicals, which
can release VOCs (volitle organic compounds) and create poor indoor air
quality into your home, especially if the chemicals are not combined
properly if it’s not applied at the right temperature, or if it’s not properly
installed.”, according to Google.

VOCs are man-made chemicals with high vapor pressure and low water
solubility. VOCs are not good for your overall health and can, in some cases,
cause death. There are alternatives to spray foam and my recommendation is to
search for these alternatives.

The third item to be aware of in regards to building materials and indoor air pollution, are paints and their levels of VOCs. Unfortunately, even low-VOC paints still emit VOC gasses. To lower your
exposure to VOCs it’s recommended that all finishes that are not being painted
be covered in plastic to prevent VOCs from being absorbed into these finishes.
I hope that this blog is helpful when deciding on what building materials to
use on your next remodeling project.

Occasionally, I wonder how people regard my profession as a carpenter and
business owner. I can see how some people see my profession as an athlete. Others may
think of my profession as a backdoor to earn a decent living without formal training. I’ve
come across others who probably see this career as a multi-step career in which you start
as a laborer and end in some sort of management position.

I see my job through many lenses, but to the outsider I think my job is easiest to
understand if you compare it to how a magician executes a magic trick. I know that this
comparison may be corny to many, but I think that this comparison has a lot of truths to
my job as a carpenter.

There are many types of magicians, which include the amateur to the ultra-
professional just like the world of carpentry. Some magicians are flashy and try to exploit
all the visual and auditory senses as much as possible. Just as there are some carpenters
who have all the fancy, expensive equipment and props that exploit customers’ assurance
that they can execute a project. Light shows, booming audio, and fancy equipment do not
execute tricks or projects, but they certainly can help.

When I am executing a task in carpentry, I am operating in a world of imperfection.
Overall, I am battling imperfect measurements, imperfect equipment, and imperfect
materials. Like the magician, I am fighting the environment to perform a task or in the case
of a magician, a trick. My job is creating an illusion in an imperfect world that can
withstand time; just as the magician is visually trying to convince your brain and your eyes
that the trick performed appears real.

A professional magician who executes a trick well can blow your mind. The first
question is, how did they do that? A well-trained, experienced carpenter also begs the
same question.

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